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THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QUAY Circular Quay, once known as Semi-Circular Quay, is often referred to as the "birthplace of Australia". It was here, in January 1788, that the First Fleet landed its human freight of convicts, soldiers and officials, and the new British colony of New South Wales was declared. Sydney Cove became a rallying point whenever a ship arrived bringing much-needed supplies from "home". Crowds still gather here whenever there is something to celebrate. The Quay and The Rocks are focal points for New Year's Eve revels, and Circular Quay drew huge crowds when, in 1994, Sydney was awarded the year 2000 Olympic Games. The Rocks area offers visitors a taste of Sydney's past, but it is a far cry from the time, less than 100 years ago, when most inhabitants lived in rat-infested slums and gangs ruled its streets. Now scrubbed and polished. The Rocks forms part of the colourful promenade from the Sydney Harbour Bridge to the spectacular Opera House. STREET - BY - STREET: THE ROCKS HERO OF WATERLOO SYDNEY OBSERVATORY GARRISON CHURCH MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART THE ROCKS DISCOVERY MUSEUM THE ROCKS MARKET CADMAN'S COTTAGE THE OVERSEAS PASSENGER TERMINAL CAMPBELL'S STOREHOUSES Today the bond stores contain several harbourside restaurants catering for a range of tastes, from contemporary to Chinese and Italian. It is a delightful area in which to relax with a meal and watch the bustling boats in the harbour go by. The pulleys that were used to raise cargo from the wharf can still be seen on the outside, near the top to the building. GEORGE STREET One of Sydney's original thoroughfares - some say Australia's first street - it ran from the main water supply, the Tank Stream, to the tiny community in The Rocks, and was known as Spring Street. In 1810 it was renamed in honour of George III. George Street today runs all the way from the Harbour Bridge to the Central Railway Station north of Chinatown. Many 19th-century buildings remain, such as the 1844 Counting House at No. 43, the Old Police Station at No. 127 (1882), and the Russell Hotel at No. 143 (1887). But it is The Rocks end that most reflects what the early colony must have looked like, characterized by cobbled pavements, narrow side streets, warehouses, bond stores, pubs and shop fronts that reflect the area's maritime history. Even the Museum of Contemporary Art, constructed during the 1950's, began its life as the Maritime Services Board's administration offices. In the early 1970's union workers placed "green bans" on the demolition of The Rocks. These streets had been considered slum areas by the government of the day. However many of the building in George Street were restored and are now listed by The National Trust. The Rocks remains a vibrant part of the city, with George Street at its hub. A market is held here every weekend, when part of the street is closed off to traffic. THE ROCKS DISCOVERY MUSEUM, 2-6 Kendall Lane. A unique collection of archaeological artifacts and historical images dating from the early establishment of the European colony to the postwar era helps visitors explore the eventful and colourful history of this neighbourhood. The displays are enhanced by interactive high-tech touch screens and audiovisual exhibits. SUSANNAH PLACE, 58-64 Gloucester Street. Built for Edward and Mary Riley, who arrived form Ireland with their niece Susannah in 1838, these solid houses have basement kitchens and backyard outhouses. Connections to piped water and sewerage had probably arrived by the mid-1850's. The museum surveys the houses' development over the years, from wood and coal to gas and electricity, which enables the visitor to gauge the gradual lightening of the burden of domestic labour. The terrace, including a corner grocer's shop, escaped the wholesale demolitions that occurred after the outbreak of bubonic plague in 1900, as well as later clearings of land to make way for the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Cahill Expressway. In the 1970's, it was saved once again when the Builders Labourers' Federation, under the leadership of activist Jack Mundey, imposed a conservation "green ban" on The Rocks, temporarily halting all demolition and redevelopment work. SAILOR'S HOME, 106 George Street. At the time it was built, the Sailors' Home was a welcome alternative to the many seedy inns and brothels in the area, saving sailors from the perils of "crimping". 'Crimps" would tempt newly arrived men into lodgings and bars providing much-sought-after entertainment. While drunk, the sailors would be sold on to departing ships, waking miles out at sea and returning home in debt. Sailors used the home until 1980, when it was adapted for use as a puppet theatre. From 1994 until 2005 it was used as a heritage centre and a tourist information and tour-booking facility. Permanent exhibitions on the first and second levels outline the archaeological, architectural and social heritage of The Rocks. The third level hosts temporary exhibitions. On the same level, at the eastern end, a re-creating of a 19th-century sleeping cubicle gives visitors a good impression of the spartan nature of the original accommodation available to sailors. CADMAN'S COTTAGE, 110 George Street. The cottage is named after John Cadman, a convict who was transported in 1798 for horse-stealing. By 1813, he was coxswain of a timber boat and the following year received an unconditional pardon. In 1821, he was granted a full pardon. Six years later, he was made boat superintendent of government craft and took up residence in the four-room cottage that now bears his name. Cadman married Elizabeth Mortimer in 1830. She has also arrived in Sydney as a convict, sentenced to seven years transportation for the theft of one hairbrush. The couple, along with Elizabeth's two daughters, lived in the cottage until 1846. When Cadman's Cottage was built it stood on the foreshore of Sydney Harbour. At high tide, the water used to lap just 2.5m (8ft) from the door. Now, as a result of successive land reclamations such as the filling-in of Circular Quay in the 1870's, is is set well back from the waterfront. WESTPAC MUSEUM, 6-8 Playfair Street. ARGYLE STORES, 18-24 Argyle Street. Built between 1826 and the early 1880's, the stores held important goods such as spirits. All goods forfeited for the non-payment of duties were auctioned in the courtyard. The oldest store was built for Captain John Piper, but it was confiscated and sold after his arrest for embezzlement. GARRISON CHURCH, Corner of Argyle and Lower Fort Streets. Henry Ginn designed the church and, in 1840, the foundation stone was laid. In 1855, the architect Edmund Blacket was engaged to enlarge the church to accommodate up to 600 people. These extensions, minus the spire that Blacket proposed, were completed in 1878. Regimental plaques hung along interior walls recall the church's military associations. Other features to look out for are the brilliantly coloured east window and the carved red cedar pulpit. The window was donated by a devout parishioner, Dr James Mitchell, scion of a leading Sydney family. The church also houses a museum displaying early Australian military and historical items. SYDNEY OBSERVATORY, Watson Road. The building began life in the 1850's as a time-ball tower. At 1pm daily, the ball on top of the tower dropped to signal the correct time. A cannon was fired simultaneously at Fort Denison. This custom continues today. In the 1880's, some of the first astronomical photographs of the southern sky were taken here. From 1890 - 1962, the observatory mapped 750,000 stars as part of an international project that produced an atlas of the entire night sky. HERO OF WATERLOO, 81 Lower Fort Street. WHARF THEATRE Pier 4/5 fulfilled the Sydney Theatre Company's need ford a base large enough to hold theatres, rehearsal rooms and administration offices. The ingenious conversion of the once-derelict heritage building into a modern theatre complex is recognized as an outstanding architectural achievement. Since then, the main theatre, a small and intimate space, has been a venue for many of the company's productions. It has seen premieres of plays from leading Australian playwrights such as Michael Gow and David Williamson, as well as performances of new works from overseas and plays from the standard repertoire. At the tip of the wharf, the bar area and Wharf Restaurant command super harbour views across to the Harbour Bridge.
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